Whilst it must be noted that it is notoriously difficult to turn a reasonable profit in the restaurant industry, the explicit use of wine lists as a money-making mechanism has more consequences than turning a buck. The temptation to use alcoholic beverages as a strong income generator is often at the expense of having quality wines on offer. The common result is that most wine lists you come across are built more to make money than to enhance your dining experience, a reality which further erodes the growth of a discerning wine drinking public. From this perspective it isn’t difficult to see who pays the price for poor selection.

The placid response that restaurants are forced to use their wine lists to stay afloat does not hold water when you consider the handful of eateries that manage to get it right. There exists the exceptional restaurants which do provide brilliant wine lists at the right price and their continued success is no co-incidence. However these exceptions unfortunately do tend to prove the rule.

It has (somehow) become standard practice for restaurants to offer the same boring wines as every other, with mark-ups well over 150%. It is rather difficult to find an eating establishment which can offer edgy or different options on the wine list, never-mind give recommendations or advice on the topic of food pairing. Whilst it is their prerogative to put a margin on their goods sold, one would expect that this would, at the least, be accompanied by value-added service. If not, then what exactly are you paying for?

The two restaurants on the Steenberg Estate both have their own wine list approaches. Catharina’s is very serious about their wine service with a Head Sommelier who hand-picks the wines on their list to ensure that every menu item has a few interesting pairing options available. There is always a dedicated wine steward on hand to aid those less inclined to make their own decisions. In addition to these services, there is a purpose built cellar for the ideal storage of wine. Bistro1682 on the other hand have a light and easy approach to wines which ties in with their approach to food. The Bistro focuses on Steenberg wines and showcases their strengths and qualities. With only a 25% mark-up the wines are meant to be accessible to every diner. The wine list also has a few other wines from the Constantia Valley.

The need by restaurants to use their drinks as a means to make money does not necessarily have to detract from the quality of the wine list or of the service dedicated to wine, if anything it gives them more reason to commit to it. Correct serving temperatures, glassware and wine advice should exist in any restaurant who sees their wine list as an important part of the dining experience.

Seemingly isolated in this tangled and detached three-party relationship stands the wine producer. The more audacious restaurants will even ask wineries for a fee to be listed, knowing how important wine listings are for sales. This indiscriminately excludes the smaller wineries (often the ones with more interesting offerings) who don’t stand a chance against the ‘big boys’ who can buy their way in. At the end of the day not only do the producers suffer, but also the consumers, as wine lists tend toward a dreary norm in search for greater margins.

The fear then is that the price being paid for this outcome is not only carried by the consumer and the forgotten producer but that it is something altogether more harmful to the wine industry at large. What chances do keen newbies and budding enthusiasts stand when faced with a sea of wines chosen by the restaurateur on cost rather than quality? And this is where the problem lies: with Joe Soap more than content with a common unimaginative wine list to accompany his menu choices, restaurants really have little incentive to steer away from mass market wines. For the discerning drinker then the only option is to bring your own, pay corkage and hope that the wine you have brought manages to enhance whichever meal you choose to accompany it!

What would the festive season be without a little bit of bubbly? As the end of the year comes near there is much to celebrate and what would a party be without a good glass of Steenberg 1682MCC (Méthode Cap Classique)?

Whether it’s to toast a milestone, brighten up a breakfast or to simply wind down the day, a glass of bubbly is always a welcome treat. The bubbles have an uplifting effect both literally and figuratively, making MCC a suitable drink for all occasions. When it’s time to eat however, MCC is often overlooked as a potential partner to the meal. Done correctly it can enhance the dish, lifting the flavours and textures, transforming the entire experience.  Below are two food and fizz pairing suggestions for the holiday season as well as a fun cocktail idea.

The Spring Rolls recipe is taken from the book Celebrating Méthode Cap Classique by Di Burger (available at Cellar Door for R300). If you need the perfect reason to start drinking a bit earlier in the day however, try the Eggs Royale recipe from our very own Bistro 1682. Pop a bottle and enjoy!

Prawn and Rice Noodle Spring Rolls

Paired with Pinot Noir 1682MCC

Makes 12 portions

250g peeled and deveined prawns, chopped

100g mange tout, cut into thin diagonal strips

100g carrots, cut into 3cm julienne

100g celery, cut into 3cm julienne

3 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

1 tbsp chopped mint

Finely grated rind of two lemons

1 tbsp sesame seeds, briefly toasted in a pan

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh chilli

1 egg white, lightly stirred

2 tbsp hoisin sauce

2 tsp fish sauce

2 tbsp lemon juice

150g cooked rice noodles, cut into 3cm lengths

2tsp salt

12 spring roll wrappers

Cornflour for dusting

Sweet chilli sauce, to serve

• In a mixing bowl, combine the prawns, mange tout, carrots, celery, coriander, mint, lemon rind, sesame seeds and chilli. Mix well
• Combine the liquid ingredients in a separate bowl, then pour over the prawn mixture and mix through. Lastly, add the rice noodles and gently toss through. Season with salt
• Place the wrappers one by one on a clean dry surface. Place two heaped teaspoons of the mixture just off centre, towards yourself. Fold the side of the wrapper closest to you over the filling and tuck in, to make a round cylindrical shape. Fold the one side over the filling and roll over once. Fold the other side over the filling and roll to the top of the wrapper to seal the spring roll. Seal the edge with water. Store on a plate, lightly dusted with cornflour and keep covered, while rolling the rest.
• Pre-heat the oven to 200°C and bake rolls for about 10-12 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. Alternatively deep-fry spring rolls in warm oil until golden brown and crispy.
• Cut in half, diagonally, and serve warm with sweet chilli sauce. 

 

Eggs Royale Paired with Pinot Noir 1682MCC

For the Eggs Royale

Use fresh traceable free range eggs for poaching (an old egg will not allow the whites to coagulate and set).

Use the best possible local smoked trout and good quality toasted English muffins or homemade potato rosti.

Plate up the muffin or rosti topped with sautéed baby spinach, smoked trout and then your poached eggs, covered in hollandaise. 

HOLLANDAISE:
Makes 200ml

· 175g unsalted butter
· 2 free range egg yolks
· 2 table spoons warm water
· Juice of 1 lemon
· Salt and white pepper
· Cayenne pepper

• Clarify the butter by melting it, so the solids are separated from the rich yellow oil. Remove from the heat and allow the solids to settle to the bottom of the pan. Any solids floating may be removed with a spoon.
• Place the yolks, water and the juice of half the lemon into a mixing bowl, and place this over a pan of simmering water. Whisk continuously until it reaches ribbon stage. This is very important, as this is what gives you a beautifully aerated hollandaise.
• Remove the bowl from the heat and, very slowly, start to add the clarified butter while whisking continuously. If the sauce becomes too thick, add another tablespoon of warm water. Continue to add all the clarified butter.
• Season with a pinch of salt, white pepper and cayenne. Allow to stand in a warm place for 2 minutes, then pass through a fine sieve. Add more lemon if required. 
• Use within 1 hour of making.

 

Cocktail Suggestion

1682 MCC Chardonnay and Cuciarin (Coo-Chee-Ah-Rin)

Cuciarin means little spoon in Piemontese. Cuciarin is simply a sugar cube soaked in aromatic (orange) pure alcohol. It is served after dinner, on a spoon, set on fire for a few seconds, blown out and eaten! Followed by a glass of Chardonnay MCC of course! Alternatively you can drop a cube in your glass to add that extra citrus kick! Jars of Cuciarin are available at Cellar Door at R90 each.