Whilst it must be noted that it is notoriously difficult to turn a reasonable profit in the restaurant industry, the explicit use of wine lists as a money-making mechanism has more consequences than turning a buck. The temptation to use alcoholic beverages as a strong income generator is often at the expense of having quality wines on offer. The common result is that most wine lists you come across are built more to make money than to enhance your dining experience, a reality which further erodes the growth of a discerning wine drinking public. From this perspective it isn’t difficult to see who pays the price for poor selection.
The placid response that restaurants are forced to use their wine lists to stay afloat does not hold water when you consider the handful of eateries that manage to get it right. There exists the exceptional restaurants which do provide brilliant wine lists at the right price and their continued success is no co-incidence. However these exceptions unfortunately do tend to prove the rule.

It has (somehow) become standard practice for restaurants to offer the same boring wines as every other, with mark-ups well over 150%. It is rather difficult to find an eating establishment which can offer edgy or different options on the wine list, never-mind give recommendations or advice on the topic of food pairing. Whilst it is their prerogative to put a margin on their goods sold, one would expect that this would, at the least, be accompanied by value-added service. If not, then what exactly are you paying for?
The two restaurants on the Steenberg Estate both have their own wine list approaches. Catharina’s is very serious about their wine service with a Head Sommelier who hand-picks the wines on their list to ensure that every menu item has a few interesting pairing options available. There is always a dedicated wine steward on hand to aid those less inclined to make their own decisions. In addition to these services, there is a purpose built cellar for the ideal storage of wine. Bistro1682 on the other hand have a light and easy approach to wines which ties in with their approach to food. The Bistro focuses on Steenberg wines and showcases their strengths and qualities. With only a 25% mark-up the wines are meant to be accessible to every diner. The wine list also has a few other wines from the Constantia Valley.
The need by restaurants to use their drinks as a means to make money does not necessarily have to detract from the quality of the wine list or of the service dedicated to wine, if anything it gives them more reason to commit to it. Correct serving temperatures, glassware and wine advice should exist in any restaurant who sees their wine list as an important part of the dining experience.

Seemingly isolated in this tangled and detached three-party relationship stands the wine producer. The more audacious restaurants will even ask wineries for a fee to be listed, knowing how important wine listings are for sales. This indiscriminately excludes the smaller wineries (often the ones with more interesting offerings) who don’t stand a chance against the ‘big boys’ who can buy their way in. At the end of the day not only do the producers suffer, but also the consumers, as wine lists tend toward a dreary norm in search for greater margins.
The fear then is that the price being paid for this outcome is not only carried by the consumer and the forgotten producer but that it is something altogether more harmful to the wine industry at large. What chances do keen newbies and budding enthusiasts stand when faced with a sea of wines chosen by the restaurateur on cost rather than quality? And this is where the problem lies: with Joe Soap more than content with a common unimaginative wine list to accompany his menu choices, restaurants really have little incentive to steer away from mass market wines. For the discerning drinker then the only option is to bring your own, pay corkage and hope that the wine you have brought manages to enhance whichever meal you choose to accompany it!

































